
Walking out to the car this morning in the misty rain I realized that winter here in Portugal smells just like early spring in Illinois...the main difference is that in IL when the damp chill penetrates to your very bones, you can go back inside to a warm cozy house. Here, since the homes do not have central heat and are made of stone and tile, inside the house is often more chilly than it is outside! But hey, I hear that by February winter is over...so I will not complain.
We had an interesting trip to Morocco, Africa. We drove the 7 hours from Lisboa to Spain (Espanha) and there caught a ferry to Tangiers. The 45 minute ferry ride was uneventful except for standing in line two different times to get our passports stamped. We arrived to overcast skies as evening approached and caught a taxi (two actually since there were 8 people in our party) to the bed and breakfast (Dar Nilam) where we had a reservation. We were greeted at the door by our host, ushered into the reception area and given a tall drink of some type of fruit nectar. After
registration was complete we were shown to our rooms and asked when we would like to have dinner. We had made arrangements ahead of time to dine with the host family who owns the B&B.
If you haven't seen our picts from Morocco try to view them. It is hard to explain the oppulence of the decor at Dar Nilam. Every imaginable color and pattern could be found in the tile, the curtains, the rugs, the furniture, etc. Overstuffed cushions and decorative throw pillows abounded. Lush velvets, filmy guazes, shiny silks were everywhere. Our host told us that the home had been his family home until his parents wanted to downsize. Since our host (Rachid) and his wife (Fatima) had both been trained in hospitality and hotel management his parents gave them the home and asked them to try to make something out of it...voila...a bed and breakfast!
At seven o'clock we followed our noses (the smells were fabulous) and assembled downstairs for an authentic Moroccan dinner. It started with bread and various pate type spreads which was followed by the most delicious chicken and vegetable couscous. During dinner we discussed politics, religion and history with our host and hostess. They are Muslim but have some knowlege of Christianity. They asked questions and we answered and then we asked and they answered our questions. It was quite an interesting exchange. After dinner their two young daughters (6 and 18 months) joined us as we feasted on fresh fruit.
The beds at the B&B were beautiful although not that comfortable, but, since we were pretty tired after our long day, we slept well. The next morning we were served a huge breakfast of all kinds of rolls and breads and coffee, tea, or hot chocolate.
After breakfast we were off to tour Tangiers. We had arranged for our taxi driver from the night before to pick us up at 10AM for the tour and in a misting rain we headed out. We saw the summer home of the king of Morocco and many palaces that belong to wealthy Arab families. Most come to Tangiers only at certain times of the year when the weather is too hot in other parts of the continent. We saw gypsies hawking their wares and berbers selling their farm produce. Our guide whisked us through the market place too fast for our liking. We wanted to "shop" and bargain but he had other ideas. We ended up in a bazaar which we figured was owned by his family...he wanted us to shop there...perhaps he was getting a cut.
The sun came out and in no time we found ourselves rushing to catch the 2PM ferry back to Spain. As we headed for the ferry merchants ran after us trying for a last minute sale...I ended up buying two bracelets and 2 t-shirts literally on the run. It was actually pretty fun.
By the time we reached the ferry we were all ready to relax and take a "chill-pill"...I settled for a bottle of cold water.
Nancy